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REGIONAL CLIMBING
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The Sawtooth Range,
about one and a half hours north of Ketchum,
has some of the best alpine rock climbing
anywhere. The centerpiece attraction is
the spectacular “Elephant’s
Perch", a 1,200’ cliff
of excellent granite with about 30 long
routes. |
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| Distance
from Ketchum: 1.5
- 2.5 hours Number
of Routes: ~200 Rating
Range: 5.6 – 5.12 |
Notes: The
best rock is found in a triangular-shaped
area bounded by Redfish Lake in the north,
Hell Roaring Lake in the south and Grandjean
in the west.
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Directions: Redfish
Lake Road: Turn west off ID-75
5 miles south of Stanley and drive 2
miles on a paved road to Redfish Lake.
A large backpacker’s parking lot
is located just before the lake on the
north side of the road. Hell
Roaring Creek Road: Take
ID-75 south from Stanley for 12 miles,
turn west, cross the Salmon River and
then drive 5 miles on a rugged dirt road
best suited for a 4WD to the trailhead.
Grandjean Entrance
Road: This entrance
is located 38 miles west of Stanley on
ID-21. A good gravel road leads from
the signed turnoff for 7 miles to the
trailhead, which is at an elevation of
5,200 feet. |
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Idaho’s City
of Rocks has been called America’s
premiere granite sport climbing area. This
unique area continues to attract climbers
from around the globe. The City is renowned
for it’s fascinating and often bizarre
geography, plentiful moderate climbs as
well as famous test-pieces on excellent
granite. |
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| Distance
from Ketchum: 3
hours Number
of Routes:750+ Rating
Range: 5.6 – 5.13 |
Notes: The
City is known for its bolted slab climbing
but there are many fine cracks as well.
There is great camping, reservations
are highly recommended. There are a number
of trail heads, consult the Elephants
Perch for guide books and beta.
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Directions: Take
ID 84 and exit either at Burley and follow
the signs via Oakley or drive via Declo,
Albion, Almo to the park headquarters. |
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Castle Rocks State
Park, the City’s other area opened
in May 2003 after years in private hands.
CRSP is located about three miles west
of Almo and has nearly 150 climbing routes
as of spring 2004. |
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| Distance
from Ketchum: 3
hours Number
of Routes: 150+ Rating
Range: 5.6 – 5.11 |
Notes: Awesome
climbing in the moderate ranges, most
routes are well protected with bolts
and top anchors.
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Directions: See
direction for City of Rocks. Then drive
three miles west from Almo. |
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Massacre is still
one of the best kept secret crags in Idaho.
With over 600 bolted routes, it may even
be the best basalt sport climbing spot
in the country. Located on the Snake River
near the town of American Falls is about
four hours from Ketchum. |
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| Distance
from Ketchum: 4
hours Number
of Routes: 200+ Rating
Range: 5.8 – 5.12 |
Notes: Sport
routes and scores of natural lines. Massacre
has been referred to as “5.11 Heaven” Although
many climbs in the easier grades do exist
the majority of the climbing falls into
the 5.10-5.12 category. Beware of Rattle
Snakes!
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Directions: Located
approximately 30 miles east of Burley,
directly off I-86 and across the Snake
River from the State Park. |
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Dirke’s Lake/Shoshone
Falls – Five miles east of Twin Falls
and one and half hours drive from Ketchum
upstream from the falls is Shoshone Falls
Park. Dirke's’s has excellent bouldering
and a hearty collection of steep sport
climbs on basalt rock. |
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Distance
from Ketchum: 1.5
hours |
Number
of Routes: Over
65 |
Rating
Range: 5.7 – 5.13 |
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Notes: Idaho’s
premier basalt climbing area, abundance
of varied sport and crack climbs and
excellent bouldering. Routes tend to
be steep and overhanging.
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Directions: Drive
5 miles east of Twin Falls to Shoshone
Falls Park. Dirke's’s Lake is just
upstream from the fall. |
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SAWTOOTHS SELECTED
CLIMBS: |
Elephant’s Perch
Approach time: 3 hours
Mileage: 3 miles
Elevation gain: 2100 feet
 Approach: For climbs around the Redfish Lake
area a commercial shuttle boat is available
to ferry climbers the five miles across Redfish
Lake. It is a service well worth the $10 round-trip
fee. From the ferry’s terminus at the
Redfish Lake Inlet Transfer Camp on the lake’s
west end, hike the Redfish Creek Trail approximately
two miles. At this point the trail nears the
creek and a log spanning Redfish Creek serves
as a bridge. Cross this and locate an indistinct
trail that heads to the Saddleback Lakes. The
trail to Saddleback Lakes fades in and out
while becoming more strenuous to climb, and
after nearly a mile ends at the lakes, with
the Elephant’s Perch looming directly
above.
The Routes: The Splittgerber-March Direct
is identified by the large left-facing dihedral
on the northwest face. Scramble 3rd—class
ledges and ramps to the start of this route,
marked by a thin left-facing corner capped
by a small roof. The Mountaineers Route begins
in the chimney/guly system at the left end
of the west face (look for the triple roof
and the large diamond). The Beckey Route starts
at the base of the prominent right-sloping
, shallow dihedral, The Fine Line, Myopia start
just above, and Astro Elephant just above the
wedged chockstones in the descent gully. Further
up the descent gully, the Sunrise Book is the
obvious 500-foot right facing dihedral. |
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